So you've made it to Sri Lanka. Here's how you get around
It could take a while for new visitors to Sri Lanka to become accustomed
to getting around Colombo and travelling on to Kandy and Hambantota for
cricket matches. Nothing is as straightforward (or as concerned with
health and safety) as in many other countries.
Realisation sets in on arrival at the airport (visas in advance through www.eta.gov.lk.)
There is no dedicated airport-to-Colombo bus service, and no longer is
there a train connection. If transport hasn't been arranged by your
hotel, it's best to book and pre-pay for a taxi at the taxi counter
located in the arrivals hall (after customs clearance), before leaving
the airport. Touts offering taxis are not to be relied on, even if they
lurk inside the arrivals hall.
Once safely ensconced in hotel or guest house, it is advisable to use
the property's recommended taxi or chauffeur-driven cars (at a declared
fixed rate per hour or per kilometre), so there is some guarantee of
getting where you want to go and back again without aggravation.
There are several radio cab services, among them Ace (Tel:
94-11-281-8818) and Kangaroo Cabs (Tel: 94-11-250-1501). These charge Rs
68 per kilometre. The cost of longer journeys, such as to Kandy (116km)
or even to Hambantota (238km), can be negotiated with them.
For short journeys around Colombo, a new service has been introduced,
using small Indian-made Nano cabs. They're a bit cramped if you're tall,
especially in the back seat, but cheap and cheerful and more reliable
than the ubiquitous three-wheeler taxis, or tuk-tuks, to give them the
popular name borrowed from Thailand. Some of the popular mini-cab
companies are the metered Nano Cabs (Tel: 94-11-267-6767) and Budget
Taxis (Tel: 94-11-729- 9299). Rates are quoted as starting at Rs 50 for
the first kilometre, with each subsequent kilometre at Rs 32.
Tuk-tuks can be flagged down in the street. If they don't have a meter,
and the driver speaks a bit of English, negotiate the price before
boarding. If you're not sure what is reasonable, listen to what the
driver tells you, say "No, thanks", walk away in the opposite direction
so he can't follow you, and flag down another tuk-tuk. With an idea of
the price from the first driver, you have an idea of a starting point
for negotiation. The driver will usually build a tip into his quote, but
if you're happy with the service, add between Rs 20 and Rs 50 when you
pay.
Trains are a comfortable way travel to Hambantota or Kandy from Colombo
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When you find a good tuk-tuk driver who knows where you want to go and
can communicate properly, use him exclusively. Do not, however, let him
take you into any shops, as he will claim a commission on whatever you
buy. He will do the same if he takes you to a casino. (By the way,
casinos will provide free transport on request if you are going to
play.)
There's less hassle when it comes to paying a tuk-tuk if you take a
metered one. These have rates beginning at Rs 50 for the first
kilometre, with Rs 32 for every subsequent kilometre.
Buses are not recommended for getting around town as they are usually
packed with passengers. There are no underground or sky trains in
Colombo.
If you are daring and have the patience to tolerate the illogical
interpretation of the Highway Code (for instance, a flashing right-side
indicator can mean the vehicle in front wants you to overtake, not that
he is turning right), try hiring a car to drive yourself. Hertz operates
in Colombo from an office in the Galadari Hotel complex (Tel:
94-11-236-9333) and has rates starting at US$50 per day, unlimited
mileage. They also have chauffeur-driven vehicles with a maximum of
100km per day at US$60, and extra charges for driver's nights away from
base. A local driving permit (show your International Driving Permit) is
necessary and can be obtained through the Colombo Automobile
Association's office (Tel: 94-11-242-1528) for Rs 2500.
Travelling out of Colombo need not be difficult. There are long-distance
air-conditioned private buses operating from the Pettah bus station
near the Colombo Fort railway station. Avoid the all-stopping government
buses that are packed with standing passengers. To travel south there
are now long-distance air-conditioned buses (route number EX-01) that
use the new Southern Expressway to Galle. These leave from the Kottawa
bus station (itself a 45-minute bus ride away: take route 138 from
Pettah, or a tuk-tuk) and run to and from Galle every 20 minutes
throughout the day. Seats can't be reserved; the fare is Rs 470 and the
journey takes about an hour. From the Galle bus station to Hambantota
will involve another bus journey, and take about four hours.
The best way to Hambantota independently is by train from Colombo Fort
to Matara. There are two good departures from Colombo, at 8.35am and
10.30am. The second-class fare is Rs 230. From Matara, it's about 70km
to Hambantota by bus or taxi, and another 30km to the cricket ground.
Since there are no places to stay within walking distance of the
stadium, which is close to the small town of Sooriyawewa, an option
would be to stay in the vicinity of Tangalle,
which is about 61km away. There is a Nano mini-cab service (Tel:
94-71-381-6381) operating from there for Rs 45 a metered kilometre, or
by negotiation. Transport can also be provided by the Ranna212 and
Turtle Bay hotels overlooking the Kahandamodera beach.
From Colombo to Kandy there are much better travel options:
air-conditioned buses or trains, with information available by
telephoning the Government Information Centre on 1919. Train timetables
can be found here.
If you find a tuk-tuk driver who knows his way around the city and can communicate with you, stick with him
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The best trains are the two Intercity departures (at 7am and 3.35pm) to
Kandy. Seats can be booked by going to the Colombo Fort railway station
booking office no more than ten days in advance. More comfortable and
more easy to get is a seat in the privately run carriages attached to
Kandy bound trains. One is operated by Exporail, with tickets at Rs 1130
one way and Rs 2200 return, that can be booked online. Breakfast or a snack and unlimited tea and coffee are included in the price. Another is run by Blue Line, with a special a/c carriage attached to evening departures from Colombo to Kandy (one-way fare, Rs 950).
Since the stadium at Pallekelle is only 9km from Kandy, transport from
any hotel in the town or nearby villages like Digana (by taxi or
tuk-tuk) is easy to arrange.
Travel by taxi, bus or train - or simply walking - is largely safe and
enjoyable (although walking is hot) as long as you keep your wits about
you and are prepared for delays, and for those wonderful serendipitous
moments that make travelling in Sri Lanka so fascinating.
